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El Financial Times promociona a León

Fecha: 2018-04-08

El rotativo inglés, uno de los más prestigiosos del mundo, dedica un artículo a ensalzar el valor del patrimonio leonés, su arquitectura y valor de la gastronomía de León en el año de la capitalidad.

León es hoy una pequeña ciudad de 126.000 almas, en el cuadrante noroeste de la península ibérica, un poco introvertida en el camino de las ciudades de provincia, feliz de subsistir con sus propias tradiciones y rutinas, y sin preocuparse por las cosas que le preocupan. Actualmente, la provincia de León está ignominiosamente emparentada con un vecino, Castilla, para formar la «región autónoma» de Castilla y León.

Pero nunca fue así. Durante varios siglos de sus 2.000 años de historia, León fue capital de un poderoso reino que en su apogeo se extendía sobre casi un tercio de la península Ibérica, abarcando lo que hoy es Galicia, Asturias, Extremadura y Castilla, además de una gran parte de Portugal. Museos de la ciudad como el Centro de Interpretación del Reino de León, junto al mercado de Conde Luna, muestran mapas del extenso reino durante su apogeo de los siglos X y XI, junto con retratos de los monarcas leoneses que gobernaron este antiguo territorio.

Una de las cosas que ha sucedido para impulsar la autoestima de León en los últimos años es el enlace ferroviario AVE de alta velocidad con Madrid. Terminado a fines de 2015, redujo el tiempo de viaje a poco más de dos horas, haciendo que un descanso de fin de semana sea una posibilidad tentadora. Otra es que León ha sido nombrada Capital Española de la Gastronomía para 2018, atrayendo la atención de los medios de comunicación sobre la animada escena de tapas en los innumerables bares de la ciudad, sobre la cocina moderna leonesa en los restaurantes Cocinandos y LAV y, sobre todo, sobre los productos de la provincia, desde los vinos característicos de El Bierzo hasta los quesos azules de Valdeón y la cecina de buey secada al aire libre, el emblemático embutido de León y el principal símbolo del estado culinario.

En un día estremecedor al final del invierno caminé desde la estación sobre el río Bernesga, a lo largo de la amplia Avenida Ordoño II —llamada así por un gobernante muy admirado del siglo — y en una maraña de callejuelas donde conviven amistosamente iglesias y conventos bares de vinos, librerías y tiendas de comestibles. Antes de dirigirme a mi hotel, no pude resistir un breve desvío por la calle Ancha, calle principal del casco antiguo, hacia la explanada donde la majestuosa catedral de León, construida en el siglo XIII en un exquisito estilo gótico, domina la ciudad en cada sentido concebible. La Catedral y sus 1.800 metros cuadrados de vidrieras se dedican a un proceso de restauración a largo plazo, y las glorias recientemente resplandecientes se dan a conocer de forma regular

La Colegiata de San Isidoro, el otro edificio imperdible de la ciudad vieja de León, era donde estaría durmiendo en esta visita de tres días. Cubriendo más de una hectárea de bienes raíces históricos, la Colegiata tiene dentro de sus muros un monasterio, un museo, restos romanos, una basílica románica, el panteón donde están enterrados 23 reyes y reinas leoneses, y el cáliz de Doña Urraca, uno de candidatos más convincentes para el Santo Grial. También alberga un hotel pequeño y encantador que es, por ahora, el mejor lugar para alojarse de la ciudad, al menos hasta que el majestuoso Parador Nacional de San Marcos del siglo XVI vuelva a abrir el próximo año después de una renovación total. También vale la pena investigar un nuevo conjunto de glamorosos apartamentos con cocina en la Calle Ancha, Principia Suites.

El Hotel Real Colegiata de San Isidoro está decorado de manera historicista, con muebles oscuros antiguos y pinturas barrocas de santos tristes y aristócratas lúgubres, pero el año pasado 10 de las 46 habitaciones fueron atractivamente restauradas en un cómodo estilo minimalista, con lámparas de pie Miguel Milá y puertas de roble macizo. Mi habitación tenía una pared de piedra no renderizada de un metro de espesor y una ventana abatible que daba a un claustro renacentista con una fuente que goteaba.

Vagando por el complejo a la mañana siguiente, di un giro equivocado y me perdí entre escaleras monumentales, corredores con pisos crujientes y patios desconocidos. Al lado de uno de estos patios se encuentran las tumbas austeras y sin adornos del Panteón Real y las bóvedas sobre ellas cuyas escenas pintadas de la vida campestre del siglo XI, representadas en colores vivos y claros, estaban increíblemente bien conservadas y extrañamente conmovedoras. Detrás de un estuche a prueba de balas en el museo se encontraba el famoso cáliz de Doña Urraca, que recientemente mostró un simple tazón de fuente de ágata hecho en la Palestina del siglo I dentro de su exterior dorado incrustado de joyas.

No todas las emociones de León, descubrí, eran de origen histórico. Como el Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (Musac), un impresionante edificio de los arquitectoss españoles Mansilla y Tuñón, ganador del premio Mies van der Rohe en 2007 por sus paredes con paneles que reproducen los colores de las vidrieras de la catedral. Si te gusta, estarás feliz comiendo en el luminoso comedor del primer piso de LAV, el restaurante del momento de León, con visión de futuro, donde el bocadillo del aperitivo era un «guijarro» de foie gras confitado, los macarrones salían aromatizados con chorizo ??y el postre fue servido en un matriz de laboratorio.

Sin embargo, incluso en su momento más vanguardista, León no puede evitar recordar su glorioso pasado. En 1893, el arquitecto Antoni Gaudí recibió una comisión por un bloque de apartamentos y una tienda de mercería en el entonces remoto León. No necesitaba GPS para encontrar la Casa Botines, un castillo de cuento de hadas cuyas inclinadas agujas, ventanas afiladas y azulejos de pizarra en formaciones de escamas de pez son todos tropos de Gaudí familiares de la Casa Batlló de Barcelona y el Palau Güell.

En el momento de mi visita, esta antigua sucursal bancaria, abierta al público desde abril del año pasado, se estaba convirtiendo en el museo más grande de Gaudí ubicado dentro de cualquiera de sus edificios. Se inauguró justo antes de Semana Santa y, según Chema Viejo, director de marketing de Casa Botines, los visitantes de Japón y Corea comenzaron a hacer el viaje desde Barcelona solo para ver el Gaudí que no sabían que existía.

Desde lo alto de una torrecilla pude ver las montañas de los Picos de Europa a poca distancia, sus cumbres cubiertas de nieve. Abajo en la plaza, los lugareños caminaban a zancadas a lo largo de los pavimentos, con cremallera y abrochados con abrigos gruesos y botas forradas de piel.

En el Barrio Húmedo, conocido así por la cantidad de líquido que habitualmente se consume aquí, los primeros clientes de la ronda de tapas del mediodía se reunían en los bares, de los cuales León tiene más habitantes por cabeza que en cualquier otro lugar en España (5,03 por cada 1.000 habitantes para ser precisos). Aquí estaba León, gregario y amante de la diversión, que desmanteló mi idea prejuiciosa de una ciudad septentrional y seria que prefiere la intimidad de la vida en el interior.

Cada lugar de la ciudad tiene su especialidad de tapas, y lo que hace que León sea cada vez más inusual en España es que aquí el aperitivo viene gratis con su copa de vino. No espere un nivel de complicación culinaria de San Sebastián, la tapa puede ser tan simple como una rebanada de cecina, un trozo de chorizo o una croqueta crocante, pero todo es confiablemente sabroso.

En Camarote Madrid, un bar con temas de corrida de toros que se agitaba con los asiduos a medida que se acercaba la hora del aperitivo a la una del mediodía, había una sopa de salmorejo al ajillo y patatas fritas recién fritas; y en Rua 11, canapés de queso de cabra con nueces y miel o pimientos Bierzo asados ??y panza de atún. En la plaza de San Martín, zona cero de la escena del bar Barrio Húmedo, comí un platillo de albóndigas caseras junto con un vaso grande de color rojo mineral picante en una taberna con entramado de madera llamada Rácimo de Oro.

La cocina leonesa no es para los comedores quisquillosos o pusilánimes, pero hay una sutileza incluso en su sabor sólido. Descubrí esto durante el almuerzo en Bodega Regia, una casa del siglo XIV donde Marcos Vidal me sentó con un menú apropiadamente leonés que comenzaba con cecina y lengua de cerdo curada, chorizo ??ahumado y croquetas de jamón cremosas «al estilo de Ana», la chef y la esposa de Vidal (el restaurante ha estado en la familia por más de 60 años). A eso siguió un reconfortante plato de garbanzos guisados, luego carrilleras de carne cocinadas a fuego lento, tan tiernas que se deshacían bajo el tenedor, y un pastel denso y dulce hecho con castañas de los bosques de El Bierzo.

De la Bodega Regia salí a la fría tarde a dar un paseo por la calle Ancha, casi desierta a la hora de la siesta, y otra mirada a la gran Catedral, cuyas agujas de color blanco crema, limpias de mil años de suciedad, se elevaban y brillaban en el aire limpio.

«Las comunicaciones con León son muy indiferentes, y pocos viajeros vienen por aquí», se lamentó Richard Ford en 1845. Las conexiones de transporte han mejorado desde entonces, y la gran hospitalidad de esta pequeña ciudad y su agudo sentido de su propia historia no han disminuido. Más viajeros, digo, deberían venir por aquí.

Escrito por: Paul Richardson, periodista del Financial Times

El artículo, que se puede leer bajo suscripción, se encuentra aquí.

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